鋼圈胸罩

鋼圈胸罩(英語:Underwire bra),是一種在面料內安放半圓剛性薄片的胸罩。薄片材質可能是金屬、塑料或是樹脂,縫在每個罩杯面料的內部,由胸罩中央延展至佩戴者的腋下,有助於乳房的支撐、提升、分離和塑形。許多胸罩都有鋼圈設計,包括非罩杯胸罩英語shelf bras半罩杯胸罩英語demi bras哺乳胸罩及背心,裙子和泳衣等內置胸罩的衣服。

一種半罩杯鋼圈胸罩

鋼圈胸罩的概念可追溯至1893年一項乳房固定設備的專利,該專利是在乳房下方增加一個平板以增加穩定性。現代鋼圈胸罩出現在1930年代,於1950年代開始廣泛普及。2005年時鋼圈胸罩是市場增長最快的胸罩。沒有鋼圈的胸罩稱為軟罩杯胸罩

穿着鋼圈胸罩的女性有時會有乳腺痛乳腺炎或是過敏等病症,而在機場或是監獄接受安全檢查時,偶爾會因胸罩中鋼圈觸動金屬探測器而需額外的檢查。有出現過胸罩中的鋼圈讓一發流彈跳彈,因而拯救一名女性的例子,或阻擋其他攻擊武器的案例[1][2]

歷史

 
瑪麗·圖斯的「乳房支撐器」

鋼圈胸罩的原型可追溯至1893年,紐約人瑪麗·圖斯克發明的「乳房支撐器」獲得專利。乳房支撐器被形容為緊身胸衣的修改版,與如今的聚攏文胸支撐乳房的設計十分相像。其由金屬、紙板及其他剛性材料製成,其形狀與乳房下的軀幹極為吻合。在它上面覆蓋着絲綢、帆布和其他布料,延展了平台,使每個乳房形成一個口袋。平台彎曲圍繞着軀幹,止於腋窩處,維持在適當位置,並在背部調正為貼合緊密的X形交錯肩帶,用鈎眼固定[3][4]

直到1930年代,鋼圈胸罩才在美國設計出並被投入生產。海倫·龐斯在1931年獲得一項胸罩專利,她發明的「開放式鋼圈」,平貼於胸前,環繞在兩個乳房的底部和兩側[5]。1934年,出現用於罩杯間的U形片,旨在保持乳房的分離[6]。1938年,寶蓮·鮑里斯獲頒名為「乳房支撐器」的專利,其使用鋼圈部件將乳房完全包圍[7]。1940年,沃爾特·埃米特·威廉姆斯的蜘蛛網式鋼圈獲得專利,該專利以環繞並覆蓋每個乳房提供支撐[8]。儘管鋼圈胸罩的發展始於1930年代[9],但直到1950年代二戰結束後國內金屬供應放開,才得以普及[10][11]

1940年代,霍華德·休斯為強調有份參演電影《不法之徒英語The Outlaw珍·羅素的胸部,設計了一款聚攏型鋼圈胸罩。照羅素所說,戴那個「荒謬」的玩意很是痛苦,有時在拍電影時她會把胸罩換成自己的。該胸罩目前藏於荷里活博物館[11]

伴隨着鋼圈胸罩在1950年代的廣泛使用,鋼圈已被納入許多胸罩的設計中,許多衣服也內置鋼圈胸罩。1990年,諾瑪卡·邁利將鋼圈文胸納入到連體和分體泳衣(比基尼)中[12]。斯科特·盧克麗霞發明的集成文胸的背心,於1989年獲頒專利[13]

 
陳列於零售店中的鋼圈胸罩

2000年,鋼圈胸罩佔據英國胸罩市場60%的份額[14],2005年增至70%[15]。2001年,500萬件胸罩在美國賣出,其中約70%(350萬件)為鋼圈胸罩[3][16]。截至2005年,鋼圈胸罩是胸罩市場領域中增長速度最快的產品[17]

鋼圈構造

 
S&S Industries發明的胸罩鋼圈

鋼圈胸罩設有一個半月形的「鋼圈」,嵌入環繞在每個罩杯底部和側面的通道中,其頭部靠近胸罩的前部和中心,尾部則靠近袖孔。鋼圈大多由金屬製成,小部分為塑料。由於沒有金屬鋼圈同樣的支撐性能和剛性,塑料鋼圈的市場份額非常小[16]。金屬鋼圈是一條薄薄的金屬條,兩端有尼龍塗層[18],其成分有[19]和鎳鈦形狀記憶合金[20][21]。根據為維多利亞的秘密Bail英語Bali (lingerie)Playtex英語PlaytexVF Corporation英語VF CorporationWarnaco集團英語Warnaco Group等品牌,提供鋼圈的紐約製造商S&S Industries的數據[16],70%穿胸罩的女性,選擇金屬鋼圈胸罩[22]

當鋼圈穿破胸罩面料,可能給穿戴者會造成巨大的不適。已故名廚、電視名人兼商人克拉麗莎·迪克森·萊特,只在特殊場合穿胸罩。在50歲生日派對上跳舞時,她突然覺得「胸口出奇的痛苦」。起先她以為自己心臟病發作,「疼痛越來越劇烈,打了個踉蹌,才發現我的鋼圈胸罩破了。」[23]

由於鋼圈可以撕開布料,大多數婦女在清洗胸罩時,會選擇手洗,即便是機洗也要調到「緩和乾洗」模式。一種名為胸罩清洗袋的拉鏈網眼袋,可以在機洗胸罩時,防止鋼圈從胸罩中脫落[24]

2002年,S&S Industries獲得了鋼圈設計專利,該設計在鋼圈的一端或兩端加裝彈簧塑料墊,彈簧有助於防止鋼圈外露。2008年,威爾斯的斯科特·代頓發明了「胸罩天使」,一個簡單的裝置,用以修復鋼圈彈出通道的胸罩。其上面的塑料蓋要裝配到鋼圈的尾部,然後將其插入胸罩,並將倒鈎放在適當的位置[25][26]

健康問題

 
鋼圈外露的胸罩

鋼圈對乳房進行摩擦、擠捏時,會引起皮膚紅腫和乳腺痛[27],若穿戴鋼圈從面料中突出的破胸罩,會將皮膚劃傷甚至切開[28]。少數女性的皮膚對和其他金屬有過敏反應,她們穿着鋼圈外露的胸罩可能會引發接觸性皮炎[29][30]。有些針灸師反對依賴鋼圈胸罩,當金屬線穿過人體的經絡時,會阻礙氣和能量的流動[31]

哺乳期的影響

鋼圈胸罩和其他緊縮性衣服一樣,可能會導致哺乳期婦女輸乳管堵塞[32][33]。懷孕期間乳房大小的波動亦是另一個問題,鋼圈文胸是剛性的,不能很好地適應乳房大小的改變,導致胸罩不合身而不能正確地支撐乳房[34]乳房切除術後數天,由於乳房還很脆弱,不宜使用胸罩[35][36]

除顫器使用

穿着金屬胸罩的病人,在使用自動體外心臟去顫器時可能會引起灼傷,因此在使用前應把胸罩摘除[37]。在2007年的電視節目《流言終結者》中,有一期節目,測試佩戴鋼圈文胸的患者,在使用除顫器時被灼傷的可能性。他們得出不太可能的結論,除非金屬鋼圈暴露,與除顫器的貼片非常接近也可能產生[38][39]

熱帶疾病

一份醫療報告證明,在熱帶地區穿着鋼圈文胸,尤其是在東非,可能會讓乳房由嗜人瘤蠅蛆英語Cordylobia anthropophaga出現蠅蛆病。這種蒼蠅的卵和幼蟲可以寄生在衣服中,特別是文胸鋼圈的周圍,只能通過加熱熨燙從能徹底殺死,但傳統的鋼圈文胸幾乎不可能藉由熨燙方式,達到可以殺死鋼圈周圍幼蟲的溫度[40]

法律問題

美國交通運輸管理局英語Transportation Security Administration(TSA)建議婦女穿無鋼圈胸罩,以防被金屬探測器檢出[16][41]。儘管大多數女性乘客穿胸罩沒有任何問題,這取決於鋼圈的材料。

運輸安全

2008年8月24日,星期日,電影製片人南希·凱茨在安檢時被金屬探測器探測到,工作人員試圖拍打她的乳房時進行檢查時,遭到她的反對。她向工作人員表示:「你不能因我穿胸罩,就把我當成罪犯。」TSA主管告訴她,必須要在私人房間內接受拍身檢查,否則就不允許登機。凱茨去衛生間將胸罩取下後交給主管,為了表示抗議,她以裸胸的姿態走向安檢口。後來主管向她解釋,胸罩中的鋼圈是導致金屬探測器誤報的主要原因[42][43]

2010年8月,癌症康復者、美國航空公司值班乘務員凱茜·博西,前往夏洛特道格拉斯國際機場趕乘下一班機。TSA工作人員讓她通過含大量輻射全身掃描儀後,才給她放行。「安檢員讓我把登機牌放在背上,」她表示,「當我照做時,工作人員讓我去私人檢查區。」當安檢員強迫她脫光衣服,展示植入假體的乳房時,她不悅地表示,安檢員的搜身檢查讓她「深受冒犯」,[44]。但事實上,安檢人員的行為違反了TSA的指示規定,規定中清楚寫明,安檢員不能觸碰或檢查切掉乳房的假體[45]

2010年10月,CNN員工羅斯瑪麗·菲茲帕特里克被金屬探測器檢測到後,接受了私人檢查,期間安檢員施加了侵略性的「手滑檢查」。她「用手撫摸乳房周圍,接着又摸了肚子、臀部和大腿內側,還摸了最為私隱的地方。羅斯瑪麗表示,她在搜身過程中哭了,「我感到很無助,這是對我的侵犯,我覺得備受侮辱。」[46]

對此,名為凱旋國際的瑞士公司,於2001年底推出一款以樹脂製成的「飛行常客胸罩」。其採用的無金屬扣設計,不會被金屬探測器檢測出[16][22][47]。這款胸罩目前未在北美上市,公司加拿大區發言人在2004年表示,尚未清楚這款胸罩是否繼續生產[48]

懲教機構規定

一些懲教機構,如聖昆丁州立監獄,讓來訪者要麼剪開胸罩把鋼圈取出,要麼使用該機構為訪客臨時提供的無鋼圈胸罩,這讓不知情的訪客很是尷尬和震驚[49] 。而其他機構則要求女性在洗手間內摘掉胸罩後再通過金屬探測器,返回時到衛生間把胸罩拿回來[50]

2010年6月,律師布蘭妮·霍斯特曼前往邁阿密聯邦拘留中心會見客戶,接受安檢時,她的鋼圈胸罩被金屬探測器測出。她在洗手間將胸罩脫去後,卻以不戴胸罩有違拘留中心着裝規定為由,被禁止進入監獄。聯邦公共律師辦公室聯絡典獄長琳達·麥格魯調查此事,她得知獄警曾收到一份允許穿着鋼圈胸罩者進入監獄的備忘錄,但霍斯特曼造訪期間的值班看守對修改後的規定毫不知情。典獄長將此事歸結為「失常」,保證同類事件不會再次發生[51][52]

意外事故

有一些胸罩鋼圈造成子彈或其他物體偏離,挽救佩戴者生命的個案。1996年,鋼圈胸罩挽救了一位女孩的生命。據醫院工作人員的介紹,這名女孩的身子被欄杆穿透,胸罩的鋼圈將欄杆從心臟致命處錯開,挽救了她的性命[53]。也有一些個案中,胸罩鋼圈造成子彈跳開,或致使子彈穿入心臟以外的身體部分[54]。其中一件就發生在2004年,一位貧民窟男孩射擊的流彈飛向海倫·凱莉的胸部,因胸罩的鋼圈而讓流彈跳彈而沒有傷害到心臟[1] 。2008年,一名搶劫受害者的胸部被刺時,攻擊者的小刀恰好碰到鋼圈後錯開重要器官,從而保全了她的性命[2]

參見

參考資料

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  29. ^ Boobs! an owner's guide. Girl's Life (The Free Library). 2002-10-01 [2009-05-08]. (原始內容存檔於2019-07-01). If you are sensitive to nickel and other metals, it could cause contact dermatitis when you sweat [...] The metal comes in contact with the skin due to the moisture connecting the two 
  30. ^ Lauersen, Niels H.; Eileen Stukane. The Complete Book of Breast Care Illustrated. Ballantine Books. 1998 [2009-05-08]. ISBN 0-449-91241-8. Sometimes the material covering the underwire deteriorates, exposing the metal underwire, leading to skin irritations, perhaps due to an allergic reaction to metal 
  31. ^ Is your bra making you ill?. The Independent. 2008-12-02 [2009-04-26]. (原始內容存檔於2009-03-31). The metal in underwired bras is unpopular with acupuncturists as it crosses the body's meridians and blocks the flow of chi, they say, which can cause energy to stagnate 
  32. ^ Littleton, Lynna Y.; Joan Engebretson. Maternal, Neonatal, and Women's Health Nursing. Cengage Learning. 2002: 915 [2009-05-05]. ISBN 0-7668-0121-7. Avoid tight clothing, underwire bras, infant carriers that may block milk ducts or prevent breasts from emptying adequately 
  33. ^ Hatfield, Nancy T.; Violet Broadribb. Broadribb's Introductory Pediatric Nursing. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins. 2007: 194 [2009-05-05]. ISBN 0-7817-7706-2. ... and to avoid constricting clothing or bras, including underwire bras. 
  34. ^ To underwire or not to underwire, that is the question. The Guardian. 2001-12-30 [2009-04-24]. (原始內容存檔於2012-07-31). The reason the advice is conflicting is because your breast size (as you are finding out) fluctuates a great deal during pregnancy and it is essential that you are properly fitted for a bra, otherwise you will be uncomfortable and your breasts won't be well-supported 
  35. ^ Burden, Nancy. Ambulatory Surgical Nursing. W.B. Saunders. 2000: 742. ISBN 978-0-7216-6847-5. Most surgeons recommend that patients wear a brassiere, without underwire, to provide support for several days postoperatively. 
  36. ^ Gates, Rose A.; Regina M. Fink. 240 Oncology Nursing Secrets 請檢查|url=值 (幫助). Elsevier Health Sciences. 2007 [2014-06-04]. ISBN 978-0-323-04457-8. (原始內容存檔於2014-07-09). Women should avoid underwire support postoperatively and during radiation therapy, when the breast is tender and edematous. 
  37. ^ Craig, Karen. Take charge with an automated external defibrillator. Nursing. Spring 2006, 36 (Cardiac Insider): 24–26 [2009-04-30]. (原始內容存檔於2017-06-12). 
  38. ^ Scott, Shana. Shocking Defibrillator. b5media. 2008-03-19 [2009-05-22]. (原始內容存檔於2008-05-08). the team will test whether a defibrillator can burn someone if the electricity connects with: 1. an under-wire bra 2. a nipple piercing 
  39. ^ Scott, Shana. Underwire Bra results. b5media. 2008-03-20 [2009-05-22]. (原始內容存檔於2008-05-05). 
  40. ^ Adisa CA, Mbanaso A. 'Furuncular myiasis of the breast caused by the larvae of the Tumbu fly (Cordylobia anthropophaga)'. BMC Surgery. 2004, 4: 5. PMC 394335 . PMID 15113429. doi:10.1186/1471-2482-4-5. 
  41. ^ TSA Travel Assistant. Transportation Security Administration. [11 May 2011]. (原始內容存檔於2011年5月11日). 
  42. ^ Fargen, Jessica. Heavy metal: Underwire bra trips up airport cops. Boston Herald. 18 August 2008 [24 April 2009]. (原始內容存檔於2009年4月30日). A California woman is crying gender discrimination after she claims she was forced to strip off her bra and walk through airport security without support after being busted when the underwires in her lingerie set off a metal detector 
  43. ^ Hendricks, Tyche. Delayed by her bra, air passenger is indignant. San Francisco Chronicle. 26 August 2008 [11 May 2011]. (原始內容存檔於2011-11-17). 
  44. ^ Molly Grantham; Brad Hyatt. After removing prosthetic breast, flight attendant says TSA goes "too far". Nov 18, 2010 [9 January 2012]. (原始內容存檔於2018-07-17). 
  45. ^ Assistive Devices and Mobility Aids. Transportation Security Administration. [9 January 2012]. (原始內容存檔於2011年12月29日). 
  46. ^ Barnett, Jim. TSA to phase in new pat-down procedures at airports nationwide. CNN. October 28, 2010 [9 January 2012]. (原始內容存檔於2011年11月21日). 
  47. ^ Siskos, Catherine. Please be Seated. Kiplinger's Personal Finance (Kiplinger Washington Editors). July 2002, 50 (7): 26 [2009-04-21]. ISSN 1528-9729. 
  48. ^ Goo, Sara Kehaulani. Functional Fashion Helps Some Through Airport Checkpoints. The Washington Post. December 10, 2004 [9 January 2012]. (原始內容存檔於2020-12-19). 
  49. ^ Comfort, Megan. Doing Time Together: Love and Familyin the Shadow of the Prison Illustrated. University of Chicago Press. 2008: 54 [2009-04-21]. ISBN 0-226-11463-5. The regulation of garments during visitor processing even encompasses undergarments, and virtually every woman on her first visit is sent away to remove the wire from her underwire bra so that she can pass through the metal detector without triggering the alarm. 
  50. ^ Sullivan, Dennis; Larry Tifft. Handbook of restorative justice: a global perspective Illustrated. Routledge. 2006: 266 [2009-04-21]. ISBN 0-415-35356-4. Women with an underwire bra can trigger the metal detector, requiring them to go into the bathroom with a paper bag, remove their bra, place it in the bag, return bare breasted under often revealing blouses, suffer the stares of the correctional officers, take back the bag and redress. 
  51. ^ Florida Attorney Barred From Jail Over Bra, Then for Taking Bra Off. Fox News. 12 June 2010 [3 October 2010]. (原始內容存檔於2015-09-24). 
  52. ^ Jay Weaver. Wrong bra, no bra: Jail bars lawyer. Miami Herald. June 12, 2010 [July 14, 2010]. (原始內容存檔於2016-03-25). 
  53. ^ Bra saves girl's life. London, England: The Mirror. 1996-07-05 [2009-04-22]. (原始內容存檔於2012-11-04). A girl's underwired bra saved her life when she was impaled on railings. Caroline Baptiste, 14, slipped as she climbed the fence after being locked inside a park at Dartford, Kent. An iron spike went into her body under the left arm. Mum Patricia said yesterday: "The hospital told me the spike was probably deflected from Caroline's heart by her underwired bra." 
  54. ^ Bra Deflects Bullet, Saves Woman's Life. Geekologie. 2009-04-21 [2009-04-22]. (原始內容存檔於2019-10-29). The bullet shattered the woman's living room window but barely grazed her skin. Police said it was the underwire in her bra that deflected the bullet. 

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